Spelunking in Baquitan Cave, Islas de Gigantes

Our last itinerary on our second day in Islas de Gigantes was spelunking at Baquitan Cave. After our exhilarating island hopping activities, we went back to the base camp at a little past 3:00 pm, as Joefer Decano instructed. We just had coffee at the base camp, dressed up and off we went to Baquitan Cave.

From Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn, we had to walk for about 15 minutes until we reached the start of a steep slope which served as our entry point to the cave. Since it was raining that morning, the path is muddy so we had a hard time going up. We were also wearing our ever reliable flipflops (at least we thought so until we figured out it’s not suitable for trekking after all, hehe). Three out of five of us gave up and went down the slope. Thing is, it was harder to go down as it was so slippery and there was no rope whatsoever on the trail. The slope is about six to seven feet high at an angle of about 45 degrees, but it took us so long and tons of courage to go down. Add to that the several twigs on the ground that eventually marked a long wound on my thigh before I was finally able to go back to ground zero.

So, lo and behold, our friends Uly and Bhey continued the trek and was able to explore Baquitan Cave. All the photos from this post are from them. Salamat Uly & Bhey!

According to them, the cave is so beautiful with stalagmites and stalactites just starting to form. The formation inside the cave is quite impressive but they feel it needs a lot of work in terms of preservation.

During their spelunking activity, there were parts were they don’t even know where to step on or cling on to get to the next chamber. So, they had to do it a la Tarzan and Jane and made use of the old vines.

Our friends also saw these human bones inside the cave. Again, we believe that there’s so much to discover at Islas de Gigantes in terms of archaeology and history. It is believed that this cave served as a chamber for soldiers during the World War II. There are also stories about Yamashita treasures that are belived to be buried all around the island, thus, the influx of treasure hunters in Islas de Gigantes at some point in history.

If you’re up to some adventure, spelunking at Islas de Gigantes is perfect for you. It has around 50 caves on the island alone, with varying levels of difficulty. There are five caves that are open for tourists as of the moment. The rest can be explored but with utmost precaution. 

Our friends had to crawl to this opening to get into the next chamber. 

Amazing stalagmites and stalactites can be seen inside the cave. 

This formation looks like a glistening piece of crystal! 

We envied our friends when they had shown us their photos. How we wish we were able to go there, too! So, we promised ourselves that the next time we go to Islas de Gigantes, we’ll go there in summer, bring trekking shoes or sandals and appropriate clothing for this adventure. 

When you go spelunking, your tour guide will be Kojack from Joel Decano’s team. You may reach Joel at 09184685006. Tour guide rate for spelunking is Php 200 per pax.

Ou friends Uly and Bhey crawling out of a small opening inside Baquitan Cave.

When they finally went back to the base camp, the two were enveloped in mud and exhausted but they said that’s one experience they would never forget. You survived, Uly and Bhey! Kudos!

Related Posts:

How to go to Islas de Gigantes?

Where to stay at Islas de Gigantes?

The Parola at Islas de Gigantes

Island Hopping  at  Islas de Gigantes

Snorkeling, Spelunking and Beach Bumming at Islas de Gigantes

Antonia Beach, Islas de Gigantes, Iloilo

Antonia beach at a glance

In my previous post (here), I wrote about the highlights of our island hopping activities at Islas de Gigantes. I focused more on the challenging, leg-breaking stunts we had to do to go inside the saltwater lagoon, climbing the rocks at Cabugao Gamay and doing jump shots at Bantigue sandbar. I promised to write about Antonia beach on a separate note because I feel there is so much to say about this island, so here it goes.

If you’ll ask me which of the islands provide a bird eye’s view of the entire Islas de Gigantes group of islands, my answer is – Antonia beach. The reason for being is that it has a lot to offer besides its pristine white sand and azure waters. No wonder it is where tourists are brought to have picnic lunch and spend the rest of the afternoon before heading back to the base camp.

A view of the nearby islands from Antonia beach

So, what are the things that you can do in Antonia beach? Though it is ideal for beach bumming (the sand here is finer than in Cabugao Gamay), guests can also enjoy lounging under the coconut trees while reading a book or having picnic lunch by the seaside. Its marine biodiversity is also very rich and surreal. Plus, you can go up to a small cave where you can have a nice view of the entire island.

Stunning rock formation

The other side of the beach

 As suggested by our boatmen and tour guide, we had our lunch by the seaside. Our food was prepared by Ate Anggay, the cook at Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn, and was composed of grilled fish and porkchop. Don’t worry about the tour guide and the boatmen, they also have their food and its part of the budget.

Ate Anggay’s Grilled Fish

Grilled Porkchop

 The packed lunch also includes softdrinks and mineral water. The breeze at Antonia beach will definitely lure you to sleep after a sumptuous feast. But please, try to resist it as there’s so much to explore in the island!

Scallop shells in the scallop capital

Again, we noticed mountains of scallop shells on the island. Joefer Decano, our tour guide said this is because the owner of the island is a scallop supplier. We really feel that these shells can be put into better use. I just came from the CITEM event earlier at SMX and saw a lot of world-class accessories made of shells of different kinds on exhibit. Some are even for sale and/or for export. Why not use these shells as a material to create things like that? 

Islas de Gigantes has a very rich marine biodiversity, because it lies at the epicenter of marine biodiversity in the WORLD! Yes, the Visayan Sea has such title so make sure when you visit Islas de Gigantes, you go way, way under just like what we did!

Corals in Antonia beach

 According to Joel Decano (Tourism Officer of Carles, Iloilo – 09184685006), they have identified seven diving sites around Islas de Gigantes, not to mention one site ideal for drift diving. There are no dive shops yet in Islas de Gigantes but for your diving needs, you may get in touch with Joel, as he, himself is a PADI-certified diver and  can accompany you on a diving safari.

The corals at Islas de Gigantes, both in Antonia beach and in Cabugao Gamay, are alive and humongous! Although, more varieties can be seen in Antonia beach. Please be weary though that in some seasons (like when we were there), we saw some tiny jellyfish swimming with us, so the water is a bit stingy. Otherwise, Antonia beach is a perfect spot to snorkel. So sorry to say this, but walang sinabi ang snorkeling site sa Boracay dito! Again, I intended to write that in the vernacular. 

We had brought some bread for fish feeding, and we noticed that the fishes here are not yet accustomed to being “fed” with crumbles of bread. Although, it took only awhile before they got used to it. 

If you’re tired of the underwater scene, you can go to the other side of the island where a small cave is located. You have to climb a bamboo ladder suspended on giant rocks. Again, my fear of heights forbade me go all the way up, but my friends did, so I just took their photo. 

There are more than 50 caves in Islas de Gigantes ready to be explored, but there are five caves highly-recommended for tourists. So, if spelunking is your thing, Islas de Gigantes is heaven for you! 

The cave at Antonia beach is just like a teaser for the yet another challenging activity that we were about to do later that afternoon. 

Meet Joefer Decano, Joel’s brother who served as our tour guide for oue entire stay at Islas de Gigantes.

From the cave at Antonia beach, you will see a nice panoramic view of Islas de Gigantes.

If going up the cave is challenging, going down is more difficult! But, as my friends came down the bamboo ladder, I envy them so much that I promised myself, on my next trip to Islas de Gigantes, I’ll go take the challenge,  so help me God!

Related Posts:

How to go to Islas de Gigantes?

Where to stay at Islas de Gigantes?

The Parola at Islas de Gigantes

Island Hopping  at  Islas de Gigantes

Spelunking at Baquitan Cave, Islas de Gigantes

The Parola at Gigantes Norte

The Parola at Gigantes Norte

On our second day at Islas de Gigantes, we woke up early to start our fully-loaded itinerary for the day. And by that I mean really early, like we had to get up at 5:00 am so that we can take turns in using the bathroom. At 6:00 am, coffee was ready for us at the verdant lawn of the Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn (contact Joel Decano at 09184685006), and at 6:30 am, three motorcycles fetched us from the inn and chartered us to our first destination – the Parola. Fare is Php 75 per person. Each of us also gave Php 20 to the caretaker.

The road to the Parola is concrete and narrow. On our way, we passed by some forested cliffs. A bit creepy but, well that’s part of the deal! We passed by some sharp curves and stopped at a spot where we had to walk uphill because the road is rough and unpaved so the motorcycles cannot pass through.  Little did we know that this “walk” will serve as our warm up for the coming activities later that day. 

So after about a 10-minute walk, we finally reached the site of the old lighthouse’s ruins. If you have been to Guisi lighthouse in Guimaras, you would notice that the ruins around the Parola at Islas de Gigantes looks almost the same. The Parola is built during the Spanish era to guide the ships going to Cebu and Masbate, passing through the epicenter of marine biodiversity in the world, the Visayan Sea. Though the old lighthouse in Gigantes Norte is not existent now, a new lighthouse was built.  

At the ruins of the Parola

Clockwise: Uly, Bhey, Irog, Me and Lennie

Ayaw namin mag-picture!

You can actually climb your way up to the top deck of the lighthouse as there are sturdy ladders open to the public, unlike in Guisi where you have to go one by one because the old lighthouse is dilapidated and can collapse anytime. The thing is, my fear of heights forbade me to go up, but my friends did. 

Bhey braving the ladders at the Parola

 I must admit, I envy them when I saw them up there! It must have been a nice experience to see a 360-degree view from the top. Oh well, next time I’ll try to conquer my fear of heights!

A bird’s eye view from one of the Parola’s windows

From the top, they saw a nice panoramic view of Islas de Gigantes, and a bit of the island of Masbate.

View from the top

There were several things we had noticed on our way to and from the lighthouse. First, there were no other vehicles at Islas de Gigantes except motorcycles (or at least we didn’t saw any). So, people either ride the motorcycle, or walk. On our way to the Parola, we saw some kids on their way to school, which is located in front of Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn, walking. They do not seem to realize how far the distance is,  or they just don’t have a choice. Imagine, in Manila, when I walk from Ayala to Greenbelt 5, I complain head on, while these kids do not mind walking the distance at all. I salute these  kids – all for the love of education.

Second, scallop shells are everywhere! These tiny shells must be turned into something – like crafts, construction materials or whatever. There’s too much potential in it that it is such a waste to just throw it around the island and let the bugs feast on  it. A kind of sustainable livelihood program using these scallop shells should be implemented. 

And you said you want scallops, huh?

Lastly, at the “entrance” to the lighhouse, we saw a huge hole. If this is something that the ‘treasure hunters had created, we don’t know. Are there still some ‘gold diggers’ looking for buried treasures at Islas de Gigantes? The quest continues.

So at around 7:30 am, we went back to Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn for our breakfast and our second and much-anticipated itinerary for the day – island hopping.

Related Posts:

How to go to Islas de Gigantes?

Where to stay at Islas de Gigantes?

Island Hopping  at  Islas de Gigantes

Snorkeling, Spelunking and Beach Bumming at Islas de Gigantes

Spelunking at Baquitan Cave, Islas de Gigantes

Off to the Base Camp at Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn

Mangroves on the scenic coastline of Brgy. Asluman, Gigantes Norte

After almost 12 hours on the road, hopping from one ride to another (includes waiting intervals at the airport, bus and boat), we had finally reached our destination – Gigantes Norte – one of the major islands in Islas de Gigantes, Carles, Iloilo. We jumped aboard a bamboo raft from the passenger boat to get into the shore. From there, motorcycles were waiting for us. And by that I mean single motorcycles, not a tricycle. This is the only means of transportation in Gigantes Norte. Each motorcycle can transport two people at a time, so we hopped in pairs and off we went to our base camp – Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn. 

Standard fare is Php 10 per pax.

Motorcycle is the major means of transportation in the island

Gigantes Hideaway (as how the locals refer to it) is a short 5-minute motorcycle ride from the port, or 15 minutes by foot, passing by a scenic coastline lined with mangroves, some residential homes and mountains of empty scallop shells. Owned by Carles’ tourism officer, Joel Decano, it is the only established accommodation in Islas de Gigantes as of this writing. It is actually a compound where Joel’s family live side by side. 

The entrance at Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn

The three-bedroom main house was converted into an inn. Gradually, they are adding more rooms to accommodate more tourists. The main house has a clean bathroom with ample supply of water, a dining area and a spacious living room. There is a videoke machine and a sounds system in the house, which the guests can use for free.

The quad room at the main house

The rate is Php 200 per person per night, regardless of how many rooms you want to occupy. Of course, this depends on the season. We were the only guests when we were there, so we got two rooms. One room with a queen-sized bed (fits two pax) and another room with two single beds and a queen-sized bed (fits four pax).

The room good for two pax

Power runs until 11:30 pm only. After that, a generator supports the power requirements of the inn until early morning. So, make sure to charge your cameras and phones before the power shuts down. Also, there is no network signal in Gigantes Hideaway (all networks). There’s only a place they call “call center” where people are literally doing their “calls” and “texts”. So, if you’re hiding from your boss or your ex-lover, go to Islas de Gigantes and they will not be able to contact you for the time being! You’re on vacation, right?

A scrumptious seafood feast

Now that you know how to go and where to stay at Islas de Gigantes, the next question is: where do we eat or buy food? Worry no more as the friendly staff at Gigantes Hideaway can do this for you. The usual arrangement with them is that they will charge you depending on the market value of the ingredients that they will use to cook your food. Yes, at cost. And then, you’ll just have to give a tip to Ate Anggay, the cook.

The food, especially seafoods at Islas de Gigantes is so affordable. Dubbed as the scallops capital of Carles, you can buy a kilo of scallops at Php 110 and can go lower on certain seasons! Fish, crabs, lagang(a kind of shellfish) and all sorts of seafoods are abundant in the island that you can indulge without spending a fortune! Our total bill for the food for our three days and two nights stay (dinner on day 1, full board on day 2 and breakfast on day 3) was Php 1300+ only, good for five pax.

The food is not like the usual resort food as it seems like we were having a feast all the time. Imagine this: sizzling scallops, scallop skewers, fish sinigang, spicy lagang and fried fish on the first night alone! Plus crabs and all sorts of scallop dishes on the succeeding meals! We also have an abundant supply of coffee; and beers and liquors are just within reach.  

L-R: Joel, Bhey, Irog, Uly, Lennie, Me and Jingle

On our first night, we invited Jingle and Joel to join us over a few rounds of drinks. It was a blast I must say! During the conversation, we can’t help but talk about some interesting stories on Islas de Gigantes. Joel shared some stories as to why the group of islands is called “Islas de Gigantes.”

‘There are historical accounts saying it is because of the wooden coffins found buried within the island. These coffins are about 7 to 12 ft in length, so the locals thought the early settlers on the island are ‘giants’, thus the name,” Joel recounts. Two of these wooden coffins are displayed at the dining area of Gigantes Hideaway, in front a huge Balete tree. Interesting. The island has more than the sand and sea for sure. 

the Balete tree at Gigantes Hideaway

One of the two coffins in Joel’s custody

Joel also told us that just hours before we arrived at the inn, they had been digging within the compound because they were putting up another nipa hut and at less than three feet below the ground, they had found some ceramic jars with human bones and some personal belongings inside. They had displayed the jars in a wooden cabinet inside the main house, while they buried the human bones somewhere within the compound. Joel also said that there was a time when treasure hunters flocked to the island to dig and search for Yamashita treasures. Until now, there are still see some evidences of the diggings that they made on the island. 

Ceramics found from less than three feet under the ground

There’s so much to discover at Islas de Gigantes that I think the experts or the government should focus on. Imagine these ceramics and wooden coffins that they had found. I am pretty sure that there are a lot of stuff like these buried beneath the grounds of Islas de Gigantes. These are things that are part of our history – something that we should preserve and document. Hello UNESCO? Come visit Islas de Gigantes to see for yourselves!

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Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn
Brgy. Asluman, Gigantes Norte, Carles, Iloilo

Joel Decano – 09184685006

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Related Posts:

How to go to Islas de Gigantes?

The Parola at Islas de Gigantes

Island Hopping  at  Islas de Gigantes

Snorkeling, Spelunking and Beach Bumming at Islas de Gigantes

Spelunking at Baquitan Cave, Islas de Gigantes

Retracing the Route to Islas de Gigantes

Sa Islas de Gigantes ko natagpuan

 Ang wagas na kagandahan ng karagatan.

Mapa–isla o kailaliman man,

Pangako, ika’y aking babalikan.

Aboard Tiger Airway’s A320 bound to Iloilo at dusk

It was not part of my travel plans for the year, nor was I aware that a sliver of heaven on earth lies at the northern part of Iloilo. Thanks to Tiger Airways (and to my unwavering impulsiveness) and in a snap I found myself off to the idyllic Islas de Gigantes.

Islas de Gigantes is a small group of islands in Carles, Iloilo at the northeastern part of Panay. It has two major islands: Gigantes Norte and Gigantes Sur. The islands and islets of Islas de Gigantes are actually closer to Gigantes Sur. Since there is no established accommodation in Gigantes Sur, it is practical to stay at the Gigantes Hideaway Inn in Brgy. Asluman, Gigantes Norte – the only decent accommodation at Islas de Gigantes as of this writing. Gigantes Hideaway Inn is owned by the family of Joel Decano (09184685006), the tourism officer of Carles, Iloilo.

Islas de Gigantes is accessible via local flights to Iloilo or Roxas. We chose the Iloilo route because there are more flights available from Manila to Iloilo than Manila to Roxas, although it could have been faster if we took the Roxas route as it is only two hours away from Estancia, the gateway to Islas deGigantes. Iloilo City is about four hours away from Estancia. We touched down at around 6:55 am. 

Panay Island (from GoogleMaps)

From Iloilo Airport, ride a van to SM and tell the driver to drop you off at Jaro Cathedral. The fare is Php 50 per pax. This is a cheaper alternative than taking a cab which costs Php 350/trip. From the Jaro Cathedral, board a jeepneygoing to Tagbak Terminal. Fare is Php 8 per pax.

At Tagbak Terminal, there are vans and buses (Ceres) bound to Estancia. If you’re there before 7am, you will be able to catch the aircon bus to Estancia. In our case, we missed it. The next aircon bus would be at 1pm. This left us with a choice between van and an ordinary bus. We chose to board the ordinary bus because we thought the van is too crowded, and we won’t be comfortable for the duration of the four-hour drive. However, based from our experience, the travel time via bus is lengthier than by van (which we took on our way back) because it has to pick up passengers along the way, and the ride is bumpy and uncomfortable as the driver maneuvered the bus as if we were riding the Hogwarts Express! The bus ride took four hours while the van took only 3 hours. Lesson learned, take the van, and if you’re a group of three, pay for the entire row for added comfort. Fare is Php 150 each (be it bus or van), so you’ll just have to add Php 50 each and you’re sitting like a princess already on your way to paradise!

Ordinary Ceres Bus at Tagbak Terminal

When you reach the Estancia terminal, ride a tricycle going to the port, (or the market if you want to have lunch and buy some supplies first). Fare is Php10/pax. The boat “St. Michael” bound to Brgy. Asluman, Gigantes Norte leaves the port at 2pm. This is the only trip to Gigantes Norte, so make sure you are at the port before 2pm. To be safe, go there at 1pm!

Thai Sizzling Chicken at Lucky Sizzling Plate Restobar

In our case, we arrived at the port at around 12 noon so we went to the market first and ate at Lucky Sizzling Plate Restobar. It is owned and managed by Richard, a former assistant manager at a famous restaurant in SM Megamall. There were rice meals ranging from Php 65 to 70, and ala carte meals good for two to three pax at Php 65 to 95. You just have to order rice at Php 8 per cup. We ordered the Thai Sizzling  Chicken (deep-fried chicken wrapped in pandan leaves), rice and softdrinks. As far as I remember, my share costs around Php 70. Not bad for a decent meal! If you wish to order food in advance, you may reach Richard at 09072865785. He said he can also help arrange tours to Sicogon Island (an island midway of Estancia and Islas de Gigantes which is said to be the Boracay of the late 70s and early 80s where the movie “Ang Pinakamagandang Hayop sa Balat ng Lupa” was shot.  Tetchie Agbayani’s Playboy magazine centerfold was also done in this island). However, I cannot vouch for his service since we already have a contact in Islas de Gigantes, and we did not hire him.

Richard in white polo

After eating lunch, we headed to the supermarket in front of Lucky Sizzling and bought our supplies for the rest of the trip. Most of the blogs we have read said we need  to bring drinking water as it is scarce in the island, so we hoarded some bottles, as well as some liquor and chips enough for the duration of our stay. However, when we arrived at Gigantes Hideaway Inn, Joel said that they had actually worked on a good water system so that guests won’t have to bring anything (except for personal belongings) when going to the island. Even the water in the bathrooms is clean, safe and potable. It turned out that the blogs we had read had their base camps in Gigantes Sur, where there is no decent accommodation yet, and the supply of potable water is limited.

The busy port  of Estancia

At 1:30 pm, we were already aboard the boat where we also met Jingle, the assigned tour guide who will accompany us to Gigantes Hideaway Inn. The boat left at a little past 2pm. Should you miss the boat, your options are either stay for the night at any of the resorts in Estancia (there are a few quaint resorts there), or rent a boat which costs around Php 4,500 and up depending on the size. However, based from what we experienced, I wouldn’t recommend renting a small boat because the waves can get really rough. The passenger boat, St. Michael, is already a big and sturdy boat but we can still feel the waves coming from a sort of a criss-cross direction! So, unless you want to feel like clothes in a spin dryer, be at the port before 2pm to catch the one and only passenger vessel. Fare is Php 80 per pax.

The only passenger vessel to Brgy. Asluman, Gigantes Norte

On our way to Gigantes Norte, Jingle helped us in deciphering the map which my friend had printed from the net. He showed us where Sicogon Island is, as well as Mt. Manaphag in Concepcion.  

A fishing vessel backdropped by Mt. Manaphag

From afar we can already see Islas de Gigantes – shaped like a sleeping giant on a bed of raging waves. It took us about two hours to reach the port at Brgy. Asluman, Gigantes Norte.

Islas de Gigantes

 The port, like the rest of the island, is so quiet and quaint, opposite of what the port at Estancia is. There’s no wharf at the port so during low tide, people (and we’re not exempted)  have to take a bamboo raft to reach the shore. From the shore, we took a single motorcycle to reach our base camp for this adventure – Gigantes Hideaway Inn.

The port at Brgy. Asluman, Gigantes Norte

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Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn
Brgy. Asluman, Gigantes Norte, Carles, Iloilo

Joel Decano – 09184685006

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Related Posts:

Where to stay at Islas de Gigantes?

The Parola at Islas de Gigantes

Island Hopping  at  Islas de Gigantes

Snorkeling, Spelunking and Beach Bumming at Islas de Gigantes

Spelunking at Baquitan Cave, Islas de Gigantes

La Paz Batchoy and More

An Iloilo trip will never be complete without trying the iconic La Paz Batchoy. So famous that this dish was even on the menu of some popular restaurants in Manila, as well as became a well-loved local instant noodle flavor. 

From the Parola wharf, we rode a jeepney and asked the driver to drop us at the La Paz public market where this dish had originated. When we alighted at the market, we were so confused on which batchoy to try — Ted’ or Deco’s — both of which are known for serving the “authentic” one. 

Since I have seen Deco’s in many parts of the country already, I told the group to try Ted’s instead.

We went to Ted’s (the one on the same line/side as JD’s Bakeshop). 

The place was empty when we got inside, and the staff are..well..as you can see…not so busy. One thing to note about this place is that the staff are not the friendliest ones on earth. Sigh.

We ordered three servings of Extra Super, a serving of puto and three pieces of pandesal.

The Extra Super La Paz Batchoy came in piping hot. It smells yummy! The soup might be a little “MSGish” (yes, I can feel it in my head), but the generous garnish of gizzard, liver, chicharon and pork cutlets and the fresh egg noodles made it more delectable. The puto and pandesal were perfect additions!

However, our expectations were a lot higher on this bowl of iconic soup. It was a bit ordinary for us. So-so. Nothing special. It tastes like the ones available in Manila. Worth a try but not highly-commendable. But if you happen to pass by La Paz in the future, this dish is still worth a visit.

Iloilo In Less Than 12 Hours

We left Guimaras at around 11:00 AM, and since our flight back to Manila  was at 8:30 PM, we maximized our stay and roamed around some old churches in Iloilo. Originally, the plan was to go to the UNESCO Heritage Site, Miag-ao Church, but we figured out we might end up visiting only one church due to its distance and the time constraints. So we decided to reserve the Miag-ao visit in the future.

From the Parola wharf, we rode a jeepney and asked the driver to bring us to La Paz market where we plan to have our lunch (my next post will be about La Paz Batchoy, so watch out!). From the La Paz market, we took a cab going to UP, and from there we boarded a jeep to Villa. We told the driver that we will alight at Plaza Molo. Fare is Php 8 per pax. In less than 10 minutes, we were already at Plaza Molo. We crossed the street and headed to Molo Church.

Molo Church

There was a funeral when we got into the church’s premises so we just went inside for awhile and left. 

This 1830’s church is one of the oldest and most familiar landmarks in Iloilo. The Gothic-Renaissance architecture reigns both in its interiors and exteriors. The church is made from coral rocks, egg whites and sand, just the same as the Baclayon Church in Bohol.

The National Historical Institute declared it a national landmark in 1992.

On our way out, we saw a statue dedicated to Blessed Pedro Calunsod, a soon-to-be Saint.

We were disappointed though that the plaza in front of the church was being renovated and so it’s closed to the public. After taking some photos, we walked towards the other side of the church to ride a jeepney going back to the stoplight — the crossing near UP. A jeep to Leganes and about 30 minutes of heavy traffic led us to our next destination — Jaro Cathedral.

It was built in 1864, the year it was hailed as a diocese. Outside the church is a stairway leading to a veranda where a statue of Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria (Our Lady of Candles) is located. The veranda also provides a panoramic view of the Jaro belfry and the plaza.

The Jaro belfry has witnessed the city’s development in 300 years. The three-leveled structure is made of bricks and limestone rocks. It used to serve as a watchtower against invaders. It is also used to call people to mass and announce important updates to parishioners and locals. The belfry has undergone several restorations due to damages caused by earthquakes.

From the Jaro Cathedral, we walked towards the corner  where jeepneys bound to SM Iloilo pass by. In about 10 minutes, we arrived at SM Iloilo and went straight to the Travellers’ Lounge to leave our baggage. It’s a good idea to have this kind of lounge as it is very convenient for travellers, especially to backpackers. There are clean shower rooms that you can rent for a minimal fee, as well as restrooms and lounge areas. The staff at the Travellers’ Lounge would also be happy to assist you on flight bookings and other transportation services. I hope airports and other malls nationwide would also create a lounge like this.

Upon leaving our baggage at the Travellers’ Lounge, we went inside SM and used our remaining time to do some last minute pasalubong shopping and eat early dinner. We also came across Tibiao Spa, a fish spa haven that is becoming popular in the Visayas.

Fish spas are a form of ichthyotherapy that use small fish to clean the skin. The concept is similar to that of Zenyu Ecospa at Hotel H2O (Manila Ocean Park) where small fishes nibble on your feet, hands, or even your entire body while you are submerged in a fish jacuzzi (an aquarium-like tub). 

Tibiao Fish Spa originated from Tibiao, a town in Antique, through its proponent, Flord Nicson Calawag. Just recently, the owners of Tibiao Fish Spa also introduce Tibiao Adventure Tours. The package includes exploring the eco-destinations in Tibiao, Antique, as well as another unique spa retreat — Kawa Hot Bath. Just by looking at the brochures we have got from Tibiao Fish Spa made us want to go to Antique soon! Taralets!

Our last stop was at Mang Inasal for our early dinner, and off we headed to the airport. A few steps away from the Travellers’ Loung is a terminal where airport shuttles are. The last trip is at 6:30 PM and fare is Php 70.

Where to Eat in Guimaras?

Guimaras is a quaint island, as opposed to the more clumped Boracay, or the diver-friendly Coron. No high-end restaurants here, so discerning travellers may have a hard time finding stuff to munch on. But let me suggest some places to eat while you are on the island of the sweetest mangoes.

On our way to Alubihod Beach (straight from Jordan port), we asked our guide to stop anywhere where we can have lunch. We were so famished then. Kuya Mai (our guide) suggested the famous mango pizza at the Pit Stop, but we said we want something heavier (read: rice). So, he brought us to an eatery in San Miguel, a town located half way to Alubihod Beach and in front of the centralized souvenir shop in Guimaras. The place is called “Galvez Kainan“. It serves the usual Ilonggo fare, and since we want something warm on the tummy, we chose to eat Kansi, a local version of beef nilaga; and Sisig. 

Kansi has a yellowish broth with a combination of spicy and sour flavors. It was our first time to eat this dish very similar to beef nilaga, only it is a bit sour and it has langka (jackfruit), but I must say it is delicious! Think bulalo and sinigang combined. The Sisig though was so-so. Just the typical spicy chunks of pork mask. Overall, we love our dining experience at Galvez Kainan, add to that, dirt cheap prices!

Kansi

Sisig

When we arrived at Raymen, we were surprised to know that there are small eateries and stores outside the resort – cheaper alternatives to the overrated food served at the resort’s resto. The eateries here also accept “paluto”, so you can buy some fresh catch from local fishermen that usually roam along the beachfront trying to sell their goods to tourists. Also on offer are batchoy, barbeque, fresh oysters, and a lot more. 

Fresh Oysters

When we moved to another resort the next day, we asked the lady-in-charge to give us free breakfast in lieu of a discount on room rates since it is off-peak season. She agreed and so here’s a peek at our longganisa (local sausage) breakfast. No fried rice though. Breakfast at Alobijod Cove is priced at around Php 100.

To complement our hearty breakfast, we ordered a hot bowl of pancit molo which happened to be so huge! It is good for 2 to 3 pax, and priced at Php 100, too.

Pancit Molo at Alobijod Cove

So, when you finally decide to visit Guimaras, at least you know where to go when those hunger pangs attack!

Guimaras Island Hopping

On our second day in Guimaras, we scheduled an island hopping activity through Raymen Beach Resort. This is because Kuya Mai referred his friend who is a boatman there. Apparently, his friend was not there when I went to the island hopping booth, so unfortunately (and yes, you read it right, I was so unhappy), I booked the boat “Marvin”.

Why am I not happy? You’ll know towards the end of the post.

Our first destination is the SEAFDEC (Southeast Asian Fisheries Development Center). It is a marine research center amidst Panay Gulf, about 10 minutes away from Alubihod Beach. 

SEAFDEC has bamboo bridges floating on water (think Pambato Reef in Puerto Princesa, Palawan), so you could just imagine how scared  I was when we were crossing across to go to the fish cages. But I conquered my fears (Yey!). I need to see the gargantuan Lapu-lapu (grouper), which, as they said, is the real beast in the deep blue sea.

And so we found it! The grouper,  a carnivorous fish, is as big as my 3-year old daughter Akisha. And they have not only one or two, but a lot! Whoaa! The guide said they even grow as big as human beings, and they can really eat humans alive. Scary, huh.

The next fish cage that we had visited contains giant milkfishes. As in GIANT. The guide explained the behavior of these babies including how they reproduce – a very informative stint from the witty guide!

And we also visited the Sea Bass’ cage. These, too, are carnivorous! This made me think twice before ordering Sea Bass in fine dining restaurants now. LOL.

Another attraction at the SEAFDEC is the abalone. The expensive, Chinese cuisine favourite, abalone. It was so fun to hold one, as it tickled our palms. 

You can also buy some fresh catch at the SEAFDEC that you can bring in one of the islands where you’ll be heading next. But we decided not to, as we intend to have lunch back at the resort instead.

We left the SEAFDEC after about an hour and off we headed to our next stop: Turtle Island. Oh well, we didn’t know we’re heading to this island until we found the giant turtle on its shores, because our boatman was so lazy to give us info, or rather, too lazy to even talk. 

Imagine, we had passed by this beautiful cave and he didn’t even bother to tell us what is it. That’s how efficient he is.

When we docked at the Turtle Island, the only thing that our boatman said was “May cave dun sa kabilang side, pwede n’yong puntahan.” (There’s a cave on the other side. You can go there.) So we asked how to go there, and if the water is deep. He said it’s deep. That’s it. He didn’t even bother to lend us lifevests, not until we asked for it. And the lifevests look like it won’t save you at all. These are the crappy styro wrapped in orange cloth that you put around your neck. Not even  around your body. How unsafe!

Moving forward, the Turtle Island is a smaller version of Guisi Beach. A bit pebbly. The cave on the other side faces the roaring waves, so make sure to bring a waterproof camera instead. Your usual cameras won’t survive here.

And meet “Pong”, the caretaker at the Turtle Island. Now you know why the island is named as such.

The boatman said we can already swim here. I was really bothered why he kept on saying that we can swim here, when in fact, before we left Raymen, I asked him about our itinerary, and I am certain that he mentioned a bunch of islands – most of which are famous for beach-bumming and swimming. 

The answer to my question unfolded when we left the Turtle Island. We passed by Baras Cave and Baras Beach, but we did not dock in there. I thought the boat was just maneuvering around, but apparently, we were just passing by. The boatman had no intent of bringing us closer to the shore.

I let it pass. In my mind I thought, perhaps it is in Natago Island where we will dock longer.

Baras Beach

Baras Beach is another famous accommodation in Guimaras, but I won’t recommend it. The reason being is that not only it is  hard to reach location-wise, but also it’s beachfront is so narrow. The cliff houses also look rustic.

So we passed by Baras Beach and headed to Natago Beach. Guess what? We just passed by Natago Beach. We were not even able to see its shoreline. We were so disappointed. What kind of island hopping it is? This boatman is getting into my nerves. So, the next thing I asked was where are we going to snorkel? He said in Ave Maria. We waited as our boat braved the waves, excited to see Guimaras’ marine life. After about 15 minutes or so, we noticed that our boat was already heading home. And we’re right, we headed home. No Ave Maria. No snorkeling. I asked the boatman again about it. He said, “Wala naman po kayong snorkel.” (You don’t have a snorkel (set)). GAWD!!! How would you know? Did you even ask us? Why would you assume? Why would I ask you where to snorkel if I don’t have a snorkel with me??? OF COURSE, I HAVE A SNORKEL! I always bring one. This boatman just do not know how to guide tourists properly. I gave up. And then it occurred to me, Oh my, he’s from Raymen. The resort I’ve been ranting about the other day. Oh well, talk about customer service again. So if I were  you, hire a boat not from this booth, but walk outside Alubihod Beach, in between Raymen and Alobijod Cove, and you will see another booth. Or better yet, ask Kuya Mai, or the locals to book for you. Any boat but this “Marvin” boat.

It turned out, we just had a 3-hour island hopping activity and we were back to our resort before lunch. Tsktsk.

Guisi Beach and Lighthouse, Guimaras

We just dropped our stuff at the Raymen Beach Resort and off we headed to Guisi lighthouse. The road to this centuries-old lighthouse is rough and steep. So you could just imagine how hard it is to stay at Guisi Clearwater or Kenyama Beach Resort which are both in the vicinity, unless you want to be in solitude. On our way up the steep hill, we had a peek at Guimaras beach. I was so excited to go down!

There’s an entrance fee of Php 15 (or Php 10, if I am not mistaken) that should be paid to the caretaker, whom will also serve as your guide and photographer at the lighthouse. Oh ha!

Guisi lighthouse or Faro de  Punta Luzaran, was built in 1890’s as part of the plan to provide lighting to the  Philippine seas, guiding ships through the sea channels to the ports of Manila, Iloilo and Cebu. The light station is surrounded by ruins, mostly from the Spanish era. Though the original lighthouse is not functional anymore, a new light house just beside the old one has been built.

A new lighthouse has been built amidst the ruins at Guisi

The old lighthouse looks dilapidated, and a warning sign requesting guests not to go up to its peak is written in the vernacular. But the caretaker himself would encourage you to go up, so why not miss the chance? I braved the rusty spiral stairs and conquered my fear of heights. 

The old Guisi lighthouse

Warning sign in the vernacular

My knees were shaking even when I was just halfway to the top, but the caretaker surely knew how to lure guests into climbing higher up. Lo and behold, I made it to the top. And my prize — A breathtaking 360-degree view of the Guisi beach and the Panay Gulf. 

The new lighthouse and the Guise beach

The building atop the cliff with a red roof is Kenyama Beach Resort

While at the peak of the lighthouse, I was able to capture the colourful sun, about to set in the horizon.

And it turned warmer, and warmer. I just love sunsets. It’s God’s wonderful work of art.

After I took photos from the peak, I went down the lighthouse so that my husband and other friend can also experience braving to climb the old landmark. 

Since it is still not getting  dark, we decided to go down to Guisi beach, thinking of having a quick dip. However, the breeze was so cold and we were mesmerized by the rock formations, so we ended up camwhoring by the rocks.

Guisi beach has a more pebbly sand than Alubihod beach, but it is more secluded and private. If you will stay at Kenyama or Guise Clearwater, expect no beachfront rooms, as both are nestled on the cliff near the beachfront.

The native cottages at Guise beach are almost buried in sand due to strong waves during high tide. Obviously, no one is there to clean it up, so the sand went higher and higher through time. 

As I have said, the rock formation in Guisi beach is awesome and picture-perfect, so we took some time indulging in the beautiful view and the lovely sunset.

We returned to Raymen just in time for dinner. That ends our first day in the island of Guimaras.

Up next: Guimaras Island Hopping